Recently in In the Pantry Category

I love using sumac with grilled meats, chicken and fish. I also like to add it to salad dressings, za'atar, pomegranate butter and fattouche. Although sumac is common place in the Middle Eastern kitchen, it is essentially unknown outside of the Middle East. Rather than ramble on about sumac I thought I'd share a little passage from Arabesque by Lucy and Greg Malouf as it's a far better read.



'Sumac is usually purchased as a coarse powder. It is ground from the dried berries of a shrub which grows widely all around the Middle East and eastern Mediterranean. Sumac is particularly popular in Lebanon and Syria, but it is also used in Iran, Iraq and Turkey and other Middle Eastern countries.

In Iran and Iraq sumac is used mainly as a tangy seasoning for sprinkling over kebabs- Iranian restaurants will nearly always set it on the table as a condiment to accompany grilled meats. Elsewhere, sumac is used in marinades - its tangy flavour works well with grilled meats, poultry and fish. It is often added to vinaigrettes and other dressings, or added to salads such as the refreshing bread salad fattouche. In Lebanon, sumac's greatest use is in the ubiquitous spice mix za'atar, in which it is combined with thyme and sesame seeds and used as a topping for fabulous freshly baked breads.

Sumac is a pretty deep red-brown colour, rather like rich loamy soil, with a sour, salty flavour. When you use it in Middle Eastern recipes, it is often a good idea to wash it in a little water first - heap it into a tea-strainer and run it under the cold tap for a few minutes. This helps to intensify the flavour even further.'

Malouf (2006, 288).

I briefly mentioned yesterday that I often serve those 'Chocolate Puddles' with fresh berries that have been drizzled with Vincotto and then realised that some of you may not be familiar with Vincotto. I have only ever used 'Vincotto Originale' so here is a little bit of information about the Calogiuri family's Vincotto and how to use it.

Vincotto is made by the Calogiuri family in the very Southern part of Apulia in Italy. It is obtained by using the locally grown Negroamaro and Malvasia grapes which have been allowed to further mature and wither on the vine for an additional 30 days. After the grapes have been pressed the must is then cooked and allowed to reduce and then aged in oak casks for at least four years. Vincotto has no alcoholic content and is free from added colours or preservatives.


 

The end result is a full bodied sweet, sour, velvety vinegar that goes well with roasted meats, fish and poultry. You can also drizzle Vincotto over fresh berries, ice cream, panna cotta, zabaglione, baked peaches, natural yogurt or even pancakes.

The Calogiuri family have been producing Vincotto since 1825 and have since expanded their range. Vincotto is now available in orange, lemon, raspberry, carob and fig flavours.

Most meals I cook generally start with onion, garlic, carrot, celery and fresh parsley sautéed gently in some extra virgin olive oil. With a glass of wine in one hand (that's if it's after 5pm) and a silicon spatula in the other I gently stir, wait and hope for inspiration. With two ravenous children chomping at the bit hurling dinner requests at me faster than the speed of light, I fossick through the pantry and fridge to see what else I can add to this finely chopped aromatic blend. Like a resounding gong, Hoover and Fussy cry out every three minutes or so wanting to know - 'what's for dinner Mama' and 'is it ready yet?'

The end result is greatly determined by how successful my reconnaissance mission was. Hence, dinner could be - thick minestrone, Maltese minestra, chicken, fish or lentil soup. Or a rich bolognaise or Napoli sauce that I can then toss through some fresh pasta. Maybe even a rich, flavoursome slow braised beef ragout or cassoulet if the children can hold out that long.

There is a method to this seeming madness, which in turn serves as a flavour base and foundation to most meals eaten in this house. The foundation of course is 'gli odori' which is the fancy name for that earthy, heady mix of finely chopped onion, garlic, carrot, celery and parsley sautéed in good extra virgin olive oil. I often throw in fresh rosemary, bay and thyme as I find that this particular flavour base elevates the most humble of ingredients to surprising greatness.

Dukkah is essentially a dry blend of roasted hazelnuts seasoned with aromatics and lightly toasted sesame seeds and is a much loved speciality in Egypt. Some have suggested that Dukkah originated with the camel drivers of Egypt, who after a long day's journey would dry roast nuts, spices and sesame seeds and then crush and eat the spice blend with bread generously dipped in oil.

Hence, today Dukkah is commonly served this way as an appetizer where one dips pitta or Turkish bread into the spice blend after it has first been dipped into some good extra virgin olive oil. Dukkah also goes well with soft boiled, poached or fried eggs, grilled cheese such as haloumi or can be used to season grilled fish, chicken and vegetables or simply sprinkled over a salad.



In Australia it would appear that the art of dipping your oil soaked bread in an aromatic blend of dukkah has superseded the once fashionable trend of dipping bread into a shallow bowl of balsamic vinegar. Thus in Australia dukkah has become so popular that there is now a glut of  Aussie, Outback, Bush and Native dukkah available in selected gourmet food stores, delicatessens and can even be found on supermarket shelves.

The dukkah I am currently using is Greg Malouf's 'Classic Egyptian Dukkah' a little on the pricey side, but well worth it I think. If you are feeling adventurous you could always try and make your own dukkah as there are a plethora of recipes out there. One of the better recipes I think is Claudia Roden's one which you can find in her book Tamarind & Saffron.

Pomegranate molasses or pomegranate syrup is a thick, sweet, tart, reddish brown syrup that is commonly used in Levantine cuisine. It can be used as a marinade and is often used to deepen the flavor in savory sauces. Hence, it is great in meat, fish and vegetable or pilaf dishes. You can also make salad dressings with it, drizzle a little over some fetta or Gorgonzola cheese, or use it to sweeten a beverage.

Pomegranate molasses is basically a reduction of pomegranate juice that has been boiled down with lemon juice and sugar. If you are interested in making your own Elise at Simply Recipes has an easy to follow recipe. Otherwise you could try a good quality one like Cortas as this brand does not contain additives or preservatives just pure concentrated pomegranate juice.



Pomegranate molasses is one of those things that I have only recently discovered, and if truth be told I am a little peeved that it took me this long to find out about it! The other day we added a little pomegranate molasses to some good extra virgin olive oil and then dipped crusty pieces of Ciabatta bread into it - the same way you would with balsamic vinegar. If you have yet to experiment with pomegranate molasses this is a good introductory way to get your palate use to the distinct flavour.

Probably the most famous Persian dishes that contain pomegranate molasses would have to be Fesenjan which is a poultry dish with walnuts and Muhammara which is a spicy red pepper dip.

As far as little Miss Hoover is concerned 'everyday' is Nutella Day! We may not look a like, in fact she does not look like my child at all as I am a brunette and she is a red head. The only real indication that we do in fact share genes is that we both love chocolate and both adore Nutella!

Hence, there is always a *large* jar of Nutella tucked away in our pantry. We love it on crusty bread and on our pancakes and fruit toast of a morning. Most times we prefer to eat it 'al naturale' - that is straight out of the jar by the spoonful.



I find that Nutella not only tastes wonderful but if used correctly it has the power to persuade the most stubborn of children (my Testa Rossa included)! Consequently, l can get Mr Fussy to eat all manner of fruit (well almost all) if I serve his strawberries, bananas and apple chopped nicely in a bowl with a blob of Nutella on the side as a dip.

Both my children have an uncanny knack of running in the opposite direction of my voice. They also both suffer from selective hearing on and off throughout the course of the day. Yet surprisingly enough I have found that if I preface a set task or a request with the option of dipping into the Nutella jar they immediately transform into cheerful little helpers willing to pull their weight and work as a team. And so you see that is why every day is Nutella day at our house!

One of my favourite things at the moment is Orange Blossom water which is made from the fragrant blossoms of Seville oranges, common in the coastal regions of Lebanon, Syria and Palestine. Hence, Orange Blossom water is popular in both Persian and Arabic cooking and is used to flavour rice and milk based desserts and pastries. You can find Orange Blossom water from most Middle Eastern grocery stores or specialty shops.



Use it sparingly as you only need the smallest amount to give a hint of fragrance and flavour to both sweet and savoury dishes. This summer I have been adding a little to our fresh strawberries as I find it enhances the flavour. You could also add a splash to your poached fruit, custards, crème brulee or summer puddings. Of late I have been adding it to fresh ricotta which I then sweeten with sugar. This 'orange ricotta cream' is a great accompaniment to summer fruit.

I don't know about you but I can't face the world, breakfast, school lunch boxes, my bulging inbox, Twitter, Facebook or my children for that matter before my morning coffee. Call it ritual, habit, addiction or basic primal need - my brain just does not work before coffee.

Some people find that they can't function before their early morning yoga session, ten minute shower or five mile run around the river. Hence, for me it's all about the coffee. That first morning caffé latte is both life giving and vital, for it is like an internal shower that flushes away all of life's impurities and some how magically assists in aligning the planets! Everything just 'sounds better, looks brighter and tastes better'... after that first coffee.

Photo - Enzo Maisano (2008).






























Now when I say 'coffee' I am not talking about any old coffee I am talking about Genovese coffee which is made right here in Melbourne. Over the years Genovese has endeavored to 'provide the Australian market with a true Italian espresso coffee experience'.  And so the company prides itself in being a 'third generation family owned company' and is passionate about the traditions that have been handed down to them. Their 'product is roasted and blended using artisan techniques and state of the art equipment, and as such the Genovese Espresso Coffee experience is second to none'.

I have tried many brands of coffee over the years and have drunk coffee in four of the seven major continents. I have also been fortunate enough to have experienced having my caffeine needs fulfilled at the coffee Mecca itself - Roma! Although it was quite a buzz to stand in a bar in the heart of Rome, surrounded by stylish Romans drinking their morning cappuccino or afternoon espresso I was sadly underwhelmed by the coffee itself. Don't get me wrong - Rome was, is and ever will be breathtaking and without flaw, but when it comes to coffee - Genovese to me is - 'the world's greatest coffee'.

Photos - Enzo Maisano (2008).


Well that's my humble opinion with regard to coffee - the comments box is all yours! Oh and thank you Enzo for doing the coffee justice.

I've got this ongoing love affair with smoked salmon - I just can't get enough of the stuff!  Unfortunately my family does not share this passion with me, and this pains me to no end. I thought I may have had an ally in little Miss Hoover but she has proven to be the loudest protester insisting on calling it 'stinky pink fish'. Needless to say my covert campaign over the years with smoked salmon has proven futile as my efforts have been systematically met with a consistent and unified 'yuck'. Alas, smoked salmon is now the thing I eat when I'm alone and I think I have come to terms with this.

I remember returning from my first obstetrician's appointment when I was pregnant with my son, with a hand full of literature detailing all the things I could and could not eat. High on the list of taboo foods was smoked salmon and closely ranked after that was soft cheese (but that's a whole other story in itself)! I can't begin to express my utter indignation and disbelief. I mean how absurd  - women in France, Italy and Spain are not treated this way whilst pregnant so why was I to be deprived in such a ludicrous manner? It was as if someone had pulled the rug out from under me and in this case it was Dr Ras (my 6.4ft, red headed, burly looking obstetrician)!

Would you think ill of me if I admitted to waking in the morning having blissfully dreamt about Glick's boiled bagels smothered with cream cheese, piled high with smoked salmon and a sprinkling of capers and salad greens? Well I did on countless occasions and worked myself into such a state that on one particular morning I had the most terrible altercation with Dr Ras accusing him of negligence because of the senseless smoked salmon moratorium. I insisted that both myself and my unborn child were missing out on a whole host of vital nutrients that could only be found in smoked salmon.

All this talk about Panettone is not good because it has set me on a course that I was hoping to avoid this year. But I am afraid that now that I am on the 'festive food' wagon there is no hope of me getting off until at least mid January! What could possibly top Perbellini Panettone you ask - mince tarts! Well maybe not top, but come pretty darn close. And when I say mince tarts I am not talking about those inferior impostors that you find in Bakers Delight or the likes, but rather the only mince tarts that I think rate a mention in Melbourne are Phillippa's mince tarts.

I have eaten a great many mince tarts in my time and am eternally grateful that they are only available this time of the year, other wise I would need to live on a treadmill!  I think I am on my way to having almost eaten 1000 mince tarts in my life time (not all at once). How did I arrive at that number? Well conservatively speaking, if I eat two dozen mince tarts a year and then times that by 30 years, you get way too many mince tarts for one person. But the upside is that this amount of consumption must make me some kind of 'authority' on the subject.

Jocelyn's Mince Tarts