The word 'Levant' historically refers to that handful of countries (Syria, Jordan, Israel, Palestine, Lebanon and parts of Turkey) that are situated to the East of the Mediterranean. And so 'Levantine Cuisine' refers to the culinary delights that emanate from this geographical region. I have always favoured food from the Mediterranean, but of late have come to embrace all things Levantine. It was only after doing a bit of research into the etymology of the word that I came to realise just how far my taste buds had roamed.

Thankfully, Melbourne is having a Levantine renaissance of sorts and in recent years we have seen some wonderful restaurants opening their doors that would fall into the Eastern Mediterranean genre. One of my favourite places at the moment and an absolute stand out in the crowd would have to be Shane Delia's Maha.




In order to fully appreciate Maha you first need to understand Shane. I was fortunate enough to meet up with the man of the moment a couple of weeks ago. Not only is Shane incredibly talented, passionate, dedicated, driven and completely grounded, but he is also Maltese. It was upon this shared experience of growing up in Australia with Maltese parents that we were able to sit down and chat like a couple of long lost cousins.

Rather than prattle on about the restaurants lush masculine interior, impeccable service and inimitable menu I wanted to share something about the man himself and try to communicate that which motivates him to do what he does. And so after sitting down with Shane and listening to him discuss the importance of family and tradition he was able to articulate that which inspires him. When I asked Shane point blank 'what is the motivation behind Maha' he quite simply replied - 'Family'. He then went on to say that he attributes everything he does to his grandfather Nenu.



As immigrants to Australia in the 60's Shane's grandparents and parents were confronted and at times overwhelmed by the newness and difference of everything. But the one thing that Nunnu Nenu insisted upon was that the family gathered together 'every' Sunday and shared a meal, because his greatest joy in life was his family. To this day, this tradition is still very much a part of the Delia clan and they still gather together every Sunday to eat, drink and enjoy life.

This enduring familial trait is apparent at Maha with the introduction of 'Familija Tieghi' on the last Sunday of every month. Hence patrons are encouraged to start their own family tradition by coming together for a meal and in doing so share the Maha dream.  This reoccurring theme comes as no surprise as over at The Press Club George Calombaris central tenant is that 'Food is family, family is life, life is everything'.



I cant help but feel proud about Maha, because just as Calombaris ushered in a new wave of pride in the food and culture of his childhood with The Press Club, so to does Shane with a new group of first generation Australians who are tied in some way to Malta and the Levantine.