Tea in the Medina
By on January 20, 2009 7:43 AM
Growing up I did not spend hours by my mother's side in the kitchen watching her cook, bake and serve traditional Maltese cuisine. I did not learn the secret to making the perfect Timpana, Minestra, or Aljotta. I was in a world of my own too busy studying, writing poetry and clubbing (yes I was an 80's child). In hindsight, I can safely say that I was way too self-absorbed as an adolescent to glean any pearls of wisdom that were on offer in my Mama's kitchen.
At twenty four years of age I was thrown into the kitchen as a young bride and 'hit the ground running' so to speak. I had no idea how to boil an egg let alone feed a husband. So during the first couple of years of marital bliss Mr Man did all the cooking as I happily ploughed through my Arts Degree. After a year or two of having my three square meals catered for by my loving spouse the honeymoon came to an abrupt end as Mr Man decided that enough was enough and that I needed to acquire some new skills - Pronto!

So that was the beginning of my huge learning curve and subsequent love
affair with Mediterranean food. It also marked a period in my life
where I started to reclaim my heritage and that inturn saw me beginning
to embrace the food of my parents and grandparents. Occasionally I
would deviate for a season and dabble and experiment with other styles
of cooking, but my natural inclination and palate would always see me
return to the cooking style of my family.
Several years ago just days before the birth of Little Miss Hoover, we had our 'Last Supper' (the special meal before you hit the labour ward) at Greg Malouf's wonderful restaurant Momo. It was a memorable night for many reasons, firstly because I went into labour shortly after my meal, and secondly because it was the night I fell in love with 'Middle Eastern' cuisine.
Thus, to my already heaving bookshelves I added - Saha, Arabesque, Turquoise, Tamarind & Saffron and Taking Tea in the Medina. Accordingly, my pantry was quickly stocked with cumin, saffron, rosewater, cardamom pods, harissa, chickpeas, couscous, preserved lemons, ras el hanout, barberries, sumac, burghal, za' atar, halva, pomegranate molasses, dukkah and orange blossom water.

It still amazes me that it took me that long to make the 'culinary adjustment' with regard to Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cooking. I have always viewed them as separate. Yet in reacquainting myself with the food of my heritage I have come to realise just how beautifully the two converge. There have been many contributions to Maltese cuisine over the centuries 'not a surprising fact when one considers Malta's location and it's social and economic history and the successive waves of domination'. Thus as the island was seized and occupied over the centuries by the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Spanish and French it makes perfect sense that not only would culture, language, religion and architecture be profoundly influenced, but so too would the food!
At twenty four years of age I was thrown into the kitchen as a young bride and 'hit the ground running' so to speak. I had no idea how to boil an egg let alone feed a husband. So during the first couple of years of marital bliss Mr Man did all the cooking as I happily ploughed through my Arts Degree. After a year or two of having my three square meals catered for by my loving spouse the honeymoon came to an abrupt end as Mr Man decided that enough was enough and that I needed to acquire some new skills - Pronto!

Several years ago just days before the birth of Little Miss Hoover, we had our 'Last Supper' (the special meal before you hit the labour ward) at Greg Malouf's wonderful restaurant Momo. It was a memorable night for many reasons, firstly because I went into labour shortly after my meal, and secondly because it was the night I fell in love with 'Middle Eastern' cuisine.
Thus, to my already heaving bookshelves I added - Saha, Arabesque, Turquoise, Tamarind & Saffron and Taking Tea in the Medina. Accordingly, my pantry was quickly stocked with cumin, saffron, rosewater, cardamom pods, harissa, chickpeas, couscous, preserved lemons, ras el hanout, barberries, sumac, burghal, za' atar, halva, pomegranate molasses, dukkah and orange blossom water.

It still amazes me that it took me that long to make the 'culinary adjustment' with regard to Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cooking. I have always viewed them as separate. Yet in reacquainting myself with the food of my heritage I have come to realise just how beautifully the two converge. There have been many contributions to Maltese cuisine over the centuries 'not a surprising fact when one considers Malta's location and it's social and economic history and the successive waves of domination'. Thus as the island was seized and occupied over the centuries by the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Spanish and French it makes perfect sense that not only would culture, language, religion and architecture be profoundly influenced, but so too would the food!


Hi, Thank you so much for stopping by! Now I really see how much you enjoy Middle Eastern & Mediterranean food. I believe that is one of the top kitchens in the world. The flavors, variety and feel of the food is amazing. I'm saying this just because I am Turkish I really believe in it!
I look forward to reading more of you ME & MT postings..
Smiles...Aysegul
Sigh... having 80's dance floor flashbacks! I love this brand of rosewater (gorgeous pics btw). Do you have a good (read 'easy to make') Turkish Delight recipe? I've always wanted to try that out.
As a girl in Malta I have fond memories of the wafting smell of ilma zaghar (orange blossom water) mixed with coffee on summer afternoons when my parents and grandparents would wake from their siesta to a short strong black coffee doused with the stuff - a truly beautiful way to start the second half of their working day. I have developed this habit of an afternoon and highly recommend it to you Ms Gourmet!!
I think my generation (the 80s clubbers you refer to :)) turned our backs on our Arab ancestry and its influences on all aspects of our culture and thereby rejected being Mediterranean for all sorts of reasons. I think however that we are slowly reclaiming it along with our European heritage,a mixture which is reflected in our cuisine, no? A lovely, tantalising blend of the cultures that surround us. Bravo Ms Gourmet!
Just wanted to drop a line and say I'm glad to have discovered your blog. It was your comments on Malta that drew me in; it is a favourite holiday island of mine with a great mix of cultures and, more importantly for me (but of course related to), FOOD!
Scott - Malta is our Summer destination too - with gorgeous beaches, family, festas & food we keep going back for more!
Juliana - Yes I remember my mum adding a splash of orange blossom water to her espresso too, what a wonderful frangrance, I am going to 'reclaim' that tradition as of today!
Aysegul - are you able to get a hold of Greg Malouf's book 'Turquoise' its a wonderful depiction about a chef's view of Turkish food?
As a food lover in Turkey, a Middle East country, I'm very happy to hear that you love our cuisine. As far as I see, you learnt the most important ingredients of our dishes. I hope you visit Turkey one day to taste our dishes. And I welcome you to come visit my site, which is about Turkish cuisine.
cheers
I would so *love* to come to Turkey one day soon to see your beautiful country!